A weird injury on my wrist started to bother me last spring when I started training hard for Spain. There was no pain at first but the wrist got guire stiff which made campusing hard. The symptoms got better in Spain and my wrist didn’t bother me even I started bouldering and hard training for South Africa. After my trip Africa I wanted to prepare for the World Championships in Austria and I got the symptoms back and also pain! I went to see a doctor and got a MRI!
Some Symptoms on my wrist:
Stiff wrist, confined up-down mobility. Couldn’t really mantle or do a handstand.
Pain mainly on the right side of my right wrist (when the swelling was its worst, it felt like the pain was all over)
Wrist started to get ‘dislocated’ on slopers and on big pinch-balls
Lost strength and power.
Sounds like a typical wrist injury in climbing? When I started to ask people around I heard that there might be a tear on my TFCC. Some people just told me start exercising my wirst etc. So happy that I listened my intuition and didn’t. Somehow I knew that there was something else going on,
AND! My injury was something else I haven’t ever heard of. There’s like a thousand of different bones and ligaments in wrist and therefore options for injuries as well. I’m so happy that I went to see a doctor (two actually) and got a MRI.
The diagnose was a bone bruise in a delicate lunatum bone. Sounds cute. But when you think that a bruise is actually a bleeding inside a bone and in a delicate part, it doesn’t sound that sweet anymore 😄. Bonebruise is a common injury after falling or a similar fast impact trauma, but I got mine from over using (which my hand surgeon found really fascinating). So the first steps on that recovering process was a full stabilazing for the wrist. I called my other doctor as a “cast-Göransson” because he wanted to cast it on the next day 😃! SO for the first time ever I said HELL NO to my doctor and didn’t go to the appointment. Now later I understand why he wanted to put it inside a cast sand it would have been a good idea to be honest. And therefore make sure I wouldn’t try my wrist even just a little while I was on a recovery.
In case the lunatum would not get recovered and would’ve been used too much, the bone would get gengrene. My other doctor (I had two in this case, the cast-Göransson and Klaus Köhler) Klaus called me at 10pm and convinced me to rest and take this thing serius. When I heard a word gangrene I started crying. Didn’t quite sleep on that night eather.
I couldn’t even do those following exercises until this day. Thanks for Stian Christophersen for the ideas and help!!!! If you wanna do these exercises do 8 reps and 3 sets <3 :).
Here in Finland we don’t have a national team which would have a strong support what comes to physiotherapy, massaging or coaching. So as a climbers, serious, professional or just pationated, we are on our own. So I’m feeling more than grateful for all that help I have got from the Helsingin Urheiluhieronta for any kind of injuries I have had, coaching and advices from norwegian Stian Christophersen 🙏🔥. I’ve been working closely with my massage-wizard Tuukka Häkkinen @tuukka_hakkinen (physio and osteopath of the finnish national team of snowboarding) and without his knowledge, support, experience, connections with other experts and help I would have felt apart a long time ago with all this amount of climbing and training! Not to mention also the help by my homegym Kiipeilyareena with all this 😉
Huge thanks for the most amazing doctor Klaus Köhler for all his help with this and my earlier NFO last year. Klaus is the sport doctor of the snowboard national team and the HJK soccer team, he’s really hard working and really takes care of his patients. There’s a real doctor right there!!!! 🔥🔥🔥